Sip, Stroll, Read: Experiencing Paris the Hemingway Way
- carryonsandcouture
- Feb 11
- 4 min read
Everyone has an author, or a book that changed their relationship with reading. Some even have books that heavily impacted their lives. It could be the beauty of the writing, or the connection made with characters. It could be the imagery one sees as they skim the page; it could be the poetry within that touches one's emotions. For me, it was the relevance Ernest Hemmingway’s A Moveable Feast had in the moment I read it.
I landed in Paris for my first time on October 31, 2022. After an early flight I went straight to my hotel in the 14th arrondissement to check in, drop off my bag and get changed. Very quickly I was out the door and on my way to Shakespeare and Company, the place highest on my own ‘must-see’ list.
Shakespeare and Company: A Literary Sanctuary for Readers and Travelers
I made my way through the beautiful architecture I had dreamed of seeing and felt so lucky to finally be walking amongst all the way to the Seine. With my AirPods in and sappy old French music playing in my ears, I was feeling a special sense of fulfillment I didn’t imagine I could get from travel. To delve any further into the feeling this gave me, though, would be too cheesy to be believable, so I’ll stop myself here.
Once I got to Shakespeare and Company, I had to wait in a short line. When I entered, I slowly took in the bookshelves and soaked in the history of the shop. When I walked through the upstairs area, it felt like a museum, and I was touched by the memories of writers and readers who have walked through the shop time and time again. Eventually, I decided to get a copy of A Moveable Feast, including a special stamp to commemorate buying it in the shop, and a Shakespeare and Company tote bag I still use to this day as a final memento. After buying my book and bag, I decided to continue my very long walk as it seemed I was determined to walk the entirety of the City of Love that day.
Exploring Luxembourg Gardens
Prior to my trip, I had done minimal research as I had booked my flight just days before, but my friends kindly gave me a list of recommendations. So, after my purchase, I walked to the closest: the Luxembourg Gardens.
On my way, I passed a farmers market and got myself a croissant I enjoyed throughout my walk in the garden. I leisurely walked from the entrance of the garden, taking in the people around me and the breathtaking statues from the past. Children played near a pond, friends slowly strolled through the greenery, couples held hands on benches. It was the perfect example of how beautiful it is to slow down a little and enjoy life.
At this point, it was nearing noon and I was getting a bit hungry after my early travels so I opened my list of recommendations once again and made my way to La Closerie de Lilas located near the garden in Montparnasse.
Experiencing Paris Through Hemingway’s Eyes: A Literary Travel Guide
The restaurant had a gorgeous terrace to walk through with a general brasserie and bar in one section, and a fine dining restaurant in another. I was seated right away in the brasserie and chose to get a plate of cheese and a glass of Côtes du Rhone, in true American-girl-in-Paris-fashion. I will note, having been back a few times now, that the selection of raw? seafood is excellent as well, but I didn’t get it this first time around.
As I waited, I pulled out my new book and started reading. Almost immediately, Hemingway described the Gardens I had just walked through and detailed the very restaurant I was sitting in.
It was an inexplicable moment for me as a traveler, as a reader, and as a person. It was a moment that made me feel like I was truly where I was meant to be. It gave the trip to Paris a meaning beyond just crossing off a bullet in my bucket list.
It was special.
I found myself sitting in La Closerie de Lilas for quite some time. It was a place that really gave me a sense of comfort. I don’t know if it was the book, the ambiance, or the wine, but it’s now a restaurant I make sure to stop by every time I find myself in Paris. Perhaps it could be considered a tourist trap, but sometimes these traps become places to visit for good reason, and to me, this restaurant has more than enough reason to appeal to visitors.
During my brief stay in Paris, I continued to read A Moveable Feast. I constantly found myself stepping into Hemingway’s world. I stepped through history, and I had never felt so lucky to take it all in.
Reading A Moveable Feast for the first time while visiting Paris for the first time is something I truly feel lucky to have experienced, especially as it was by chance. As someone writing about my travels, reading this book is something I cannot urge anyone enough to do during their own travels to Paris, especially if it is their first time reading it.
What To Wear in Paris:
Chic Sweater for Paris
Evelevate this look with a LOEWE cape coat, a sezane sweater, or pleated trousers from Celine with a matching belt.
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